Diesel #42 and Caboose #8 (1978 Paint Scheme)

I know that my Oakdale Junction Layout is supposed to depict railroad operations in and around Oakdale, California in the 1950's, but I wanted to show you a side project that I was recently working on.  The back story to this project is that my brother used to belong to a model railroad club located in Fremont, California back when he was in high school.  During this time, he purchased four undecorated Athearn Blue Box Baldwin S-12 diesel locomotives with the intention of painting them to match the Sierra Railroad's units.

My brother did paint three of the shells and did nothing with the fourth one.  He painted two of the units in the green with white lettering scheme and a third unit in the all yellow paint scheme which was applied back in 1978 and only to unit #42.  He also had an undecorated 4-window caboose made by Roundhouse that he turned into Caboose #8.

Roundhouse Undecorated Caboose Kit

Fortunately for me, he quit that club a long time ago and ended up giving me all of his HO scale rolling stock which included these items and additional freight cars.  At the time, I did not think much about the Sierra items as I was not modeling anything to do with the Sierra Railroad.  Obviously, my modeling interests changed and I am now modeling the Sierra Railroad (well, at least a small portion of it).

Anyway, this post is to show some pictures of these two items and how I had to fix them to be presentable once again.

Profile of Unit #42 (Note the Rotary Beacon and Engineer)

Left Side View with Conductor in the Cab

Another View of the Right Side

This shell was not in that bad of shape when I got it from my brother.  I did have to repaint a portion of the cab roof and glue the rotary beacon back on top.  One of the applied cab sunshades had broken off, so I had to reattach it and paint the area to cover up the glue.  The one thing that was added to this model that is not on the prototype is the placement of the bell.   It can be seen located between the cab and the exhaust stack.  This is a part that Athearn included when they created the model and had two holes pre-drilled so that it could be mounted in this location.  Athearn also had two holes drilled near-by for a horn, but my brother did not install it on this model.  I have never asked him why he put the bell on and not the horn.

I have a running chassis for this model that does operate on normal DC.  I will most likely put a basic decoder in it with at least three lighting functions so that I could have a forward and reverse headlight and of course I want the rotary beacon to light up as well.  I will have to order the correct air horn to be placed on the roof cab and possibly shave off the bell.  But other than that, this model is a pretty good representative of unit #42.

Caboose #8 was in pretty good shape as well.  The only thing I had to do was to rewire the lighted red marker light my brother installed at the end of the caboose and reattach the conductor he had previously glued to the end platform of the caboose.

Right Side of Caboose

Left Side of Caboose

View with Conductor Checking His Watch

The next few photographs show the working red marker light installed at the end of the caboose.  DCC was fairly new back when my brother put this caboose together so he did not put in a function only decoder inside the caboose to get the light to illuminate.  Instead, he attached a mini slide switch and a single AA battery pack to get the light to turn on when the caboose is at the end of a train.

Lighted Red Marker Light

Illuminated Marker Light and Slide Switch on the Underframe

Close-up of the Mini Slide Switch (Green Paint Dot for "ON")

I had to replace some of the wires my brother had used so many years ago.  Also, one of the light bulb leads had become detached from the battery holder.  I used my basic Radio Shack 20/40 watt soldering iron to attach everything and the lighting circuit was working properly once again.  I even used heat-shrink tubing over the electrical connections as well.  Because the electronic parts take up so much room on the inside of the model, I do not think that I will be installing any type of interior lighting unit.

Internal Electrical Components and Connections

I am fine not having the light activate with the use of a decoder.  I am not going to be running this caboose on the layout very often anyway as it is not appropriate for the time frame I am modeling.  I will probably run it on occasion with the yellow version of #42 for some layout photos.  I'll just have to remember to turn the switch off after use and not store it inside the box with the AA battery clipped into the battery holder.

On a side note, my brother still has the model railroading bug.  He has just moved onto Lionel and shares the hobbies with his three boys.  He is in the process of building a layout in his garage based upon the Pickering Lumber Corporation.  Those O Scale Shays and Heislers he has are bad ass!

Catastophic Failure with the Mini Rail Decals

Last week, I attempted to put the decals on the two yellow and red Baldwin S-12 diesels, but a major disaster took place.  The decals disintegrated right after I took them out of the water!  My heart sunk and I was in shock.  I did not know what I was going to do once I saw the Sierra Railroad herald break up before my eyes.  I had purchased the only two sets of Sierra Railroad decals from Mini Rail that were on eBay.  (I have not found anyone selling them since.)

Mini Rail Decal Set (Two Missing Heralds Were Destroyed)

I know Mini Rail is not in business and there are no other companies making Sierra Railroad decals for the steam locomotives or the original paint scheme of the diesels when they were delivered in 1955.  I figured the decal sets were so old that the protective coating for the decals had worn away.

I turned to the internet and found a few different "do it yourself" decal kits out there on the market.  Each one allows the user to print decals from an inkjet or laser printer.  When I came across the kit from Testors I knew I could purchase one at at my local hobby store. Off to the store I went and purchased the kit.  This particular kit is for inkjet printers as I do not have a laser printer at home.

I was going to have to make decals to letter the steam locomotives that I intend to use on the layout, so I knew that I could use this kit to make those decals as well.  I went back to the internet and looked up links for "free railroad roman font" and came across a website that provided a suitable Railroad Roman font.  I downloaded it and it showed up in my list of fonts for Microsoft Word.

Decal Creation Using Word and "Railroad Roman" Font

Decals for #40 and #42 on Word

I proceeded to type out different font sizes, printed out test sheets and placed them on the tenders and locomotive cab to see which font size fit best.  The other thing I discovered about the Railroad Roman font is that capital letters print out no matter if caps lock is on or off.  The difference is that with caps lock on, the letters are a little bigger and more stretched out then with caps lock off.

Testing Font Size and Letter Spacing on the Tenders

In order for the letters to  come out white on an inkjet printer, you have to use the Testors "white" decal paper.  If you use the "clear" paper, the white letters will just be clear because an inkjet printer can not print white ink.  I also had to use the highlight tool in Word.  I typed out "SIERRA RAILROAD" and then highlighted it in black.  I did this for the locomotive cab and tender numbers too.

When it came to printing out the decals on the decal paper, I made sure that I used up as much of the decal paper as possible, because I did not want to waste any of it.  The paper is pretty expensive, so get as many decals on one sheet as you can.

Use as Much of the Decal Paper Space as Possible

After printing the decals, be careful removing the sheet from the printer.  The ink is still wet and the oils on your fingers can ruin some of the decals you just printed.  After the sheet is dry you have to spray light coats of the Testors protective spray.  This will seal the printer ink prior to dipping the decals into the water prior to applying them on the model.

I am pleased with my efforts to make my own decals using my home computer and the Testors decal making kit.  Now I just have to apply the decals to the models and hope that everything works out as I hope.

Sierra Diesels #40 and #42

I am in the process of detailing the Athearn Blue Box Baldwin S-12 shells for #40 and #42.  I painted the shells using Testors spray paint.  I painted the hood body yellow and I painted the cab, side frames and walkways red.  I used blue painters tape to mask the different areas between painting the two colors.

 

 Once the masking tape was applied, I painted the shells.

After the yellow paint dried, I masked the shell off hiding the yellow portion of the body and sprayed the shell red.

Here are the two shells after they were done being painted.

The next step will be to apply the Mini Rail Sierra Railroad decal sets that I recently purchased on eBay.

Overall Layout Lighting

With the lighting valance constructed, it was time to install the overhead lighting.

 

Portfolio Light Fixture

For daytime lighting effects (sun), I used small under-cabinet lighting units from Portfolio.  I purchased these from a local home improvement store (Lowe's).  They were very easy to install using basic tools and the included hardware.  Each light fixture can be daisy-chained together as well.  This way they can be turned on from one on/off power switch.  However, you can still turn on/off each unit separately if needed.

Daytime Lighting Effect Over Sierra Yard Portion of Layout

For this layout, I was really excited to try overhead nighttime lighting effects (moon and stars).  The layout itself will have various lighting effects like street lights and interior lights for the structures.  However, I wanted to come up with a way for the layout to be lighted from overhead and simulate the glow of the moon and stars from up above.

Blue Rope Light

The solution I came up with was to use strands of blue rope lighting.  I ran three strands of this rope lighting through the rafters of the lighting valence. Once installed, I turned off the lights in the garage and turned on the blue light.  To my delight, I got the effect that I was hoping for.  The blue rope lights gave off a bluish tint that it did appear as if the moon and the stars were shining brightly in the sky high above.  There was also enough ambient light in the garage that operators of the rail road could still function and enjoy running trains.

Blue Rope Light Installed Above the Meat Packing Plant

Construction of Backdrop and Lighting Valence

One thing that I wanted to add to my Oakdale Junction model railroad layout was an overhead lighting valence.  With the layout now setup in the garage, I had the accessibility to take on this project.  The first thing I needed to do was to figure out how I could support the overhead structure.  Since the layout is free-standing and not against any of the garage walls, I needed to make the bracing strong, but not too heavy that it could come crashing down onto the layout itself.

Lighting Valence Supports & Hardboard Backdrop Being Installed

"L-Shaped" Bracket

I made "L-shaped" support arms using 1x3 dimensional lumber purchased from a local home improvement store (Lowe's).  I took two pieces of lumber and butted them together in the shape of an "L."  Then I attached them with an "L-shaped" metal bracket on both sides and securing them to the wood with tiny screws and nuts, washers and bolts.  When these support arms were done, I affixed them to the back side of the wooden layout support table with long wood screws.  Once all the support brackets were installed, I used 1x3 dimensional lumber to frame the front of the lighting valence.  The next step was to cover the frame with 1/2 inch plywood cut to the shape of the frame.



Close-up of "L-Shaped" Bracket

Upper Framing for the Corner Section of Layout

Plywood in Place Prior to Cutting Final Shape

Backdrop Puttied and Sanded for Painting Sky Blue

Oakdale Side with Backdrop Painted Blue

I mixed up the can of sky blue latex interior paint I had left over from when I painted the hardboard backdrop.  I then painted all of the exposed wood that was apart of the lighting valance.  This step greatly improved the illusion that the railroad is surrounded by sky.  The blue color will also help reflect the light down onto the layout as well.

The finishing touch to my new lighting valence was to install a small hardboard fascia to the front of the frame.  This fascia is similar to the one used to frame the layout support table.  I painted it with the same tan latex interior paint and used the same finishing screws to secure the fascia in place.  I then labeled "Oakdale Junction" using black sticky-back letters purchased at a craft store (Michael's).



Completed Lighting Valence & Partially Painted Backdrop

Painting of Backdrop Begins

The hardboard backdrop was installed on the layout a while ago and I painted it a sky blue color using latex interior paint purchased from a local home improvement store (Lowe's).  After several months of anxiety, I finally attempted to paint a more detailed backdrop.  So far, I have only painted the profile hill board that serves as a scenic view block hiding the Southern Pacific's line toward Merced, California.  I am quite surprised at the results of my effort.


The Distant Hills and Fields Take Shape on the Backdrop

I will be the first to tell you that I am no artist and I have no real experience painting.  However, after reading Painting Backdrops for Your Model Railroad by author Mike Danneman (Kalmbach Publishing), and watching several videos on YouTube regarding the subject, my confidence increased.

I purchased inexpensive acrylic paints (Apple Barrel) in a variety of colors from a local craft store (Michael's).  I then applied some of the techniques I learned and to my surprise, the depth of the distant hills began to take shape.  As the hills continued to take shape, I was encouraged to keep on going.  I know I would have given up if things did not develop like they were supposed to.  Once the hills were painted, I then focused on the foreground fields and orchards.  I even painted basic barns and silos to make the scene more realistic.  The painted scene still is not done, but I know that I really do have the ability to paint a decent looking backdrop that will help my layout look more realistic in the long run.



The Hills Contrasted with the Packing Plant

Overall View of the Scene from a Distance

Northern Pacific Reefer Parked in Sierra Yard

 

A Painted Barn Contrasted with the Reefer